Manutenção do teu taco
Enviado: 13/Abr/2011, 23:55
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How To Maintain Your Pool Cue
One question we are asked most often is how to maintain and clean a pool cue. While the butt end of a pool cue will have lacquer or a Ultra violet finish on it, most high-end pool cues have no finish on the shaft at all, except for the first few inches at the joint. The finish on the main part of the shaft would prevent the shaft from sliding smoothly through a player's bridge and make it more difficult to clean and maintain.
To lightly clean your shaft, we highly recommend the Q-Wiz. The Q-Wiz is a double-sided rubber disc with micro grit that grabs dirt and oil, yet does not bite into the wood of the shaft; unlike sandpaper which can over time alter the taper and millimeter of the shaft. For a deeper clean, a liquid cleaner such as Q-clean or Diamondback Shaft Cleaner can be applied to get additional residue out of the pores of the wood. The opposite side of the Q-Wiz has a texture similar to that of leather and does a fantastic job at burnishing the shaft, making it silky smooth. After using the Q-Wiz for a while, your Q-Wiz may accumulate dirt/residue. The accumulated dirt can be removed from the Q-Wiz with a little dish soap and an old tooth brush.
Burnishing the shaft is the most important step in maintaining the shaft and preventing warpage. Since oils, sweat, cleaning fluid or simple humidity can cause the pores of a shaft to swell open, making it more susceptible to deeper penetration of atmospheric moisture. One should burnish a shaft frequently. To burnish a shaft, simply use a piece of leather, the Q-Wiz, or even an old towel. Buff until the shaft is warm to the touch from the friction. This will also cause the shaft to feel smoother.
Inevitably a ding will appear on a cue shaft that is used frequently. To remove dings moisten a small piece of tissue and lay it over the ding for 15 - 30 minutes. The moistened tissue should be balled up to the approximate size of the ding. This will cause the wood to swell and the shaft can then be burnished. For larger dings, some players have reported great success with the Cue Doctor Dent Buffer. It is made of borosilicate glass to assure consistency. When rubbing the glass rod over the dent a light clicking sound can be heard, continue to rub vigorously until this sound can no longer be heard and the dent is smoothed. The Doctor Dent Buffer can also be used to shine Irish linen wraps.
To clean the lacquered or UV finished areas of the cue. We recommend car wax with Teflon, since the Teflon will help to repel dirt and salt from a player's hands.
Lastly, part of cue maintenance is maintaining the cue's tip. For the cue used for play (not break or jumping) one should keep the tip with the same radius as the edge of the dime. Simply hold the edge of a dime up to the cue tip. The tip should follow the same curve. For keeping chalk on a tip, we recommend a Tip Pik or Bowtie Tip Tool . The spikes on these tools has less tendency to needlessly remove leather or unduly soften the tip surface for the application of chalk. A Tip Tapper can be used if the player keeps in mind the dime radius shape to be maintained, by tapping evenly over the entire surface of the tip. If a tip becomes flat we recommend a Willard Tip Shaper or the Bowtie Tip Tool because both will provide the correct dime radius. The more often a tip is shaped the sooner it will need replacement. Still, allowing the tip to flatten will cause the cue to have increased deflection, cutting down on the performance of the cue. A player must also watch for a tip that might mushroom over time or after shaping. A mushroom is a lip or flaring over the edge of the ferrule, in which the leather begins to break down. If there is only a slight flare one might simply be able to burnish the tip to remove the mushroom. To burnish a tip, apply a little moisture to the edges of the tip using a quick twisting motion of a Porper Tip Burnisher or a stiff piece of leather until the tip's edges take on a deep brown color. The color indicates that the edges have been hardened. If there is a large {mushroom|lip} over the ferrule, one should use a Porper Mushroom Grazer to remove the excess tip and then burnish the edges.
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How To Maintain Your Pool Cue
One question we are asked most often is how to maintain and clean a pool cue. While the butt end of a pool cue will have lacquer or a Ultra violet finish on it, most high-end pool cues have no finish on the shaft at all, except for the first few inches at the joint. The finish on the main part of the shaft would prevent the shaft from sliding smoothly through a player's bridge and make it more difficult to clean and maintain.
To lightly clean your shaft, we highly recommend the Q-Wiz. The Q-Wiz is a double-sided rubber disc with micro grit that grabs dirt and oil, yet does not bite into the wood of the shaft; unlike sandpaper which can over time alter the taper and millimeter of the shaft. For a deeper clean, a liquid cleaner such as Q-clean or Diamondback Shaft Cleaner can be applied to get additional residue out of the pores of the wood. The opposite side of the Q-Wiz has a texture similar to that of leather and does a fantastic job at burnishing the shaft, making it silky smooth. After using the Q-Wiz for a while, your Q-Wiz may accumulate dirt/residue. The accumulated dirt can be removed from the Q-Wiz with a little dish soap and an old tooth brush.
Burnishing the shaft is the most important step in maintaining the shaft and preventing warpage. Since oils, sweat, cleaning fluid or simple humidity can cause the pores of a shaft to swell open, making it more susceptible to deeper penetration of atmospheric moisture. One should burnish a shaft frequently. To burnish a shaft, simply use a piece of leather, the Q-Wiz, or even an old towel. Buff until the shaft is warm to the touch from the friction. This will also cause the shaft to feel smoother.
Inevitably a ding will appear on a cue shaft that is used frequently. To remove dings moisten a small piece of tissue and lay it over the ding for 15 - 30 minutes. The moistened tissue should be balled up to the approximate size of the ding. This will cause the wood to swell and the shaft can then be burnished. For larger dings, some players have reported great success with the Cue Doctor Dent Buffer. It is made of borosilicate glass to assure consistency. When rubbing the glass rod over the dent a light clicking sound can be heard, continue to rub vigorously until this sound can no longer be heard and the dent is smoothed. The Doctor Dent Buffer can also be used to shine Irish linen wraps.
To clean the lacquered or UV finished areas of the cue. We recommend car wax with Teflon, since the Teflon will help to repel dirt and salt from a player's hands.
Lastly, part of cue maintenance is maintaining the cue's tip. For the cue used for play (not break or jumping) one should keep the tip with the same radius as the edge of the dime. Simply hold the edge of a dime up to the cue tip. The tip should follow the same curve. For keeping chalk on a tip, we recommend a Tip Pik or Bowtie Tip Tool . The spikes on these tools has less tendency to needlessly remove leather or unduly soften the tip surface for the application of chalk. A Tip Tapper can be used if the player keeps in mind the dime radius shape to be maintained, by tapping evenly over the entire surface of the tip. If a tip becomes flat we recommend a Willard Tip Shaper or the Bowtie Tip Tool because both will provide the correct dime radius. The more often a tip is shaped the sooner it will need replacement. Still, allowing the tip to flatten will cause the cue to have increased deflection, cutting down on the performance of the cue. A player must also watch for a tip that might mushroom over time or after shaping. A mushroom is a lip or flaring over the edge of the ferrule, in which the leather begins to break down. If there is only a slight flare one might simply be able to burnish the tip to remove the mushroom. To burnish a tip, apply a little moisture to the edges of the tip using a quick twisting motion of a Porper Tip Burnisher or a stiff piece of leather until the tip's edges take on a deep brown color. The color indicates that the edges have been hardened. If there is a large {mushroom|lip} over the ferrule, one should use a Porper Mushroom Grazer to remove the excess tip and then burnish the edges.
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